We arrived by bus in the late afternoon, road-weary from a trip through the Rif mountains that started four hours earlier in Tangiers. We would have taken a train or even flown if we could but “Chaouen”, as the locals call it, is remote. A tiny gem, tucked far away from the industrial life of the country that’s charm is preserved, perhaps, by its own inaccessibility.
After dropping our bags off at our riad (a traditional Moroccan house with an interior courtyard), we raced through the old medina streets, and up the road to catch the sunset as it fell over the town. We had been told by many that the best views were from the Spanish mosque, a small white building perched high into the foothills. Being unfamiliar with the way up, we took a few wrong turns but wound up finding a space that gave us a spectacular, close-up view as the sun hit the mountain’s face.
Early the next morning we set out to explore ‘Chaouen’s enchanting streets. Colloquially known as the “Blue Pearl”, it was easy to see why. The small Moroccan town of just 45,000 inhabitants is one of the most charming places you could ever imagine being. With its painted blue buildings,cobblestone paths and dramatic landscape, it made our journey there all too easy to forget.
One of our first stops was the kasbah, a beautifully restored fortress in the heart of the medina. Lined with bustling restaurants and quaint tourist traps [with all too eager locals ready to sell you their trinkets], once inside its heavy walls there is a feeling of serenity. A symmetrical courtyard centered by a simple reflecting pool giving you the feeling of an oasis in the heart of the town. We walked to the south wall, towards the tower that overlooks the foot of the mountain. We climbed several flights of stairs to arrive at the most spectacular views which, unlike the night before, entrenched us within the city, amongst its palm trees, blue washed buildings, and clay tile roofs.
The next day we decided to find our way up to the Spanish mosque. Its a relatively easy hike that starts at the far edge of the city by Ras-El Ma, a mountain spring where the local women go to wash laundry. From there you climb a steep, but paved road keeping one eye on the the mosque and another on the dramatic landscape that stands over you.
The views at the mosque are well worth the hike. It’s the perfect view for a greater perspective of the region. The mosque itself is a modest piece of architecture but it has a finished terrace that is the perfect place for an afternoon picnic.
But that wasn’t all when it came to our hiking opportunities. At the recommendation of our good friends (or so we thought afterwards), we chose to hike up the winding steps that bring you up and around the old city walls. It was a much more arduous climb in the middle of the day with the sun beating down on us but was a rewarding experience in the end.
Our time in Chefchaouen was ultimately brief but enjoyable. It marked the halfway point of our trip and a much-needed relief from the hectic city life we had become accustomed to on our trip. Beyond the shear beauty of its painted blue buildings and dramatic landscapes, it enabled us to get a better perspective of country life in Morocco and the decency of its inhabitants.
Morocco
