Often referred to as the “Alaska Panhandle”, southeast Alaska is a majestic combination of Klondike folklore, temperate rainforests, and narrow fjords. Its rugged landscape, scattered over a number of islands and inlets means navigating this largely untouched region is best done by water. Disembarking onto the shores of its cities, I was taken back by the quaintness of the buildings, its ties to the vernacular of the Gold Rush period, and its inevitable connection with the landscape. Admittedly, the highlight of the adventure came early and it didn’t feature any architecture at all as we sailed through the steep fjords of Endicott Arm to Dawes Glacier.
Departing from a somewhat smokey Vancouver harbourfront [due to the wild forest fires happening in Northen British Columbia], we sailed up the western coast of Canada’s western-most province in open water headed for Tracy Arm, a long and narrow fjord with promises of vivid blue glaciers along the way. It was views of the rocky mountains that drifted by us as we embarked on our first full day at sea.
Endicott Arm
By day 3, via a captain’s announcement, it was determined that Tracy Arm was unfit for navigation due to the unusually high build-up of ice. Instead, we were to sail up Endicott Arm and after a brief disappointment in the sudden change of plans, I was quickly put to ease as we entered the majestic eastern passage. Lined with steep, smokey fjords and tall coniferous trees, the mountains seemed to just fall into the water as we meandered through the ice-filled arm.
I’ve been fortunate to experience many moments in my life when the wonders of the world seem to unfold before my eyes in unspeakable beauty and honesty. An early morning sunrise over Angkor Wat and a Sugarloaf sunset in Rio de Janeiro jump to my mind immediately. Standing on the deck of our boat in complete silence as we gaze out in awe of the deep-blue glacier beyond can now be added to that list. A perfect combination of clear blue water and eery mountain silence left everyone at that moment completely speechless.
Skagway
Our journey continued to the small town of Skagway on day 4. Nestled in a narrow, glaciated valley at the end of an inlet, the small town of 1,000 was a jumping-off point for Gold Rush prospectors headed to the Klondike Region of Canada’s Yukon Territory. A lawless society in its time, the original architecture of the town has been largely preserved and gives a unique perspective of prospecting life in 1890’s Alaska.
Juneau
On day 5 we disembarked onto a rain-soaked Juneau. I was immediately surprised by its size and the beautiful waterways and mountains that acted as a backdrop to the City. A small tramway slowly shuttles visitors up Mt. Roberts while the bustle of Alaska’s capital plays out in full view.
The architecture is much of what you would expect in small-town America, with its welcoming front porches and quaint local shops. Only in Juneau are you provided with the landscape and quaintness together that give it a uniquely Alaskan flavor. The architecture of the city is inherently local but Juneau’s capital status means that its stone government buildings awkwardly stick out in an otherwise maritime streetscape.
Ketchikan
The 5th most populous city in the state and “home to two Starbucks”. Hearing lines like this put into perspective just how vast and untouched this beautiful part of the world is. While Skagway is most-notably a tourist town, and Juneau a state capital, Ketchikan is easily it’s most liveable. Stepping off the boat you are immediately welcomed by its large harbor lined with high-masted fishing vessels and small-time pleasure crafts. It’s a city deeply embedded in the Alaskan fishing and mining industries that are proudly displayed as you stroll past its many jewelry stores.
The beauty of Ketchikan is tucked away at the back of the town, almost missable if not for the striking totem pole that marks its beginning. At the foot of Deer Mountain to its east is Ketchikan Creek, an old red light district in the Gold Rush era built on top of the water (which has since been converted to artist studios and cafes).
Trip Highlights
See: The Salmon Ladder in Ketchikan. Self-dubbed “The Salmon Capital of the World, fresh Atlantic salmon travel up Ketchikan Creek to spawn upstream. The ladder is a man-made concrete structure that helps the fish navigate the rocky portion further up the creek. It’s a sight to see as hundreds of brave fish jump out the water as they try to make their way up.
Do: Go up the Mt.Roberts tramway in Juneau. If the weather is clear, I’m told there are are some great views of the region from the top.
Drink: Visit the Klondike Brewing Co. in Skagway off Broadway on 2nd Street. I had the greatest Blueberry Ale on their back patio as I sat in a deck chair, sipping away while I gazed at the scenic nature around me.
